Cousin’s Quilting
Doug & Lou Tuntland
Sales, Service, Installation, & Training
Site Navigation


  1. Be sure all seams and stitches are secure.  When a quilt is loaded onto the quilting machine frame, it is stretched to assure no tucks appear on the quilt bottom and that the stitching is even on the top.  This stretching places stress on seams and junctures.

  2. Make sure the quilt top lays flat.  Measure the center of the quilt top vertically.  Then measure the outside edges vertically.  If there is more than ½” difference, it is possible your quilt will have tucks when quilted.  Repeat the measuring process horizontally.  Fullness or puckers in the quilt top and wavy or ruffled borders cannot necessarily be quilted out.

  3. Check quilt top for loose threads.  Make sure there are no dark threads showing through lighter fabrics.  If these threads are not trimmed, they will end up being quilted and they will permanently show through on the front.

  4. Stay-stitch ¼” around the outside of the quilt top.  This stitching stabilizes the edges, helps to secure seams in the borders, and provides an accurate design area.  Stitch with a thread that blends with the border so that it will be unnoticeable if it is not entirely covered with binding.

  5. Press your quilt top.  Inspect the top to make sure no folds or pleats are formed along seam lines.  The hopping foot catches easily on these folds damaging the quilt top.  Turn your quilt top over and make sure the seams lie flat and are pressed in opposite directions so as to minimize thick seam junctures.

  6. Mark you quilt top.  Mark the center of all four sides of the top with safety pins.  Mark the top edge of the quilt top with a safety pin and label stating “top.”

  7. Do not baste or layer your quilt.  Remove any basting thread, pins or tacks.


  1. Select 100% cotton fabric for you backing.  Poly/cotton and 100% polyester stretch differently than cotton and can cause tucks and puckering during the quilting process.  Polyester fabrics tend to also cause “bearding” or migrating of the batting fibers to the surface of the quilt.

  2. Avoid sheets and batik fabric.  The high thread count in these fabrics can cause poor tension, skipped stitches, and thread breakage for the quilter.

  3. Select a printed backing fabric similar in color to the quilting thread to be used on the top.  Printed backings are especially desirable for tops which have been pieced from highly contrasting fabrics and which will be custom quilted.  Backing fabric that contrasts highly with the thread color is the least attractive choice.

  4. Cut your backing a minimum of 4 inches larger than your quilt top on all sides.  For example:  If your quilt top measures 60” x 60” the finished backing should be at least 68” x 68”.

  5. Seam backing from side to side.  Backing that is seamed from side to side loads onto a frame with less puckering than one that is seamed from top to bottom.  For best results sew with a 5/8” seam allowance and press seams open.

  6. Remove selvedges before piecing the backing.  Selvedges should never be included in seam allowances.  Selvedges may be left on the top and bottom edges of the backing to stabilize the backing.

  7. Ensure that all edges of the backing are straight.

  8. Press your backing.  Fold carefully to minimize wrinkles if the backing is not being loaded immediately.

  9. Mark your quilt backing.  Mark the center of all four sides of the backing with safety pins.  Mark the top edge of the quilt backing with a safety pin and label stating “top.”


  1. To select a thread color try “puddling” the thread across the quilt top.

  2. To avoid “pokies” use the same color thread on the top and in the bobbin.


  1. Preview the quilters work.  Ask to see examples of the quilters work.  A great place to “shop” for a quilter is at quilt shows.  Note the names of quilters whose work you admire.

  2. Share sketches, pictures, and ideas of how you would like your quilt done with the quilter.  Communicate your ideas to the quilter.  The more the quilter understands about your expectations, the better he/she can fulfill them.

  3. Ask for a written estimate.  The estimate should include the charges for services, all additional fees, and the completion date for the project.

  4. Allow plenty of time.  Most professional quilters are quite busy.  You may have to wait several months to secure the services of your chosen quilter.

  5. Understand the terminology.  The following list includes a description of the most common types of quilting services offered.  Prices are generally set according to the difficulty of the desired service and the amount of time required performing the service.


  1. Edge to Edge or Allover — This is a single pattern or pantograph pattern, which is quilted over the entire quilt top.

  2. Free Motion — Random edge to edge quilting without the aid of a pantograph pattern

  3. Meandering — Free motion quilting in a consistent pattern over the entire quilt top.

  4. Custom — Any combination of free motion, pantograph patterns, meandering, blocks, stitch-in-the-ditch, border treatments or templates used to complete a quilt top.

  5. Outlining — Free motion quilting around appliqués or around preprinted designs on a quilt top. Considered Custom Quilting.

  6. Stitch in the Ditch — Stitching in between seam lines to add definition to quilt blocks. Considered custom quilting given the tedious nation of the quilting so that the stitches do not show but the desired block definition does.

  7. Heirloom — Typically intricate, heavy quilting designs that are very labor intensive such as trapunto, wholecloth, or designs requiring that the entire quilt be marked prior to quilting.

Quilt Prep

Designed By John Parker All Rights Reserved